Now, for those of you who are just stepping up into the curb bit from a snaffle and are now going into information overload, my recommendation for you would probably be a short-shanked bit with a nice amount of sweep, swivel shanks, and a mouthpiece much like your preferred style of snaffle. My Recommendation for Your First Leverage Bit Been there done that, got the scars to prove it. Don’t ever get one of those “wonder bits”. So, we’re done…right? But what about those gag bits you see everyone running around with, you ask? What if I want one of those?ĭon’t get a gag bit unless you know what you’re doing and have a specific purpose for it. They don’t allow one rein correction and there is not as much feel in them. They are designed for a horse that neck reins well. Solid or immobile shanks are some of the most common western bits you will find. These bits allow a more sensitive feel for both horse and rider due to the mobility of the shanks and allows for a one rein stop in case of emergency. The entire cheek piece can move independently from the rest of the bit. Swivel shanked bits have a joint where the mouthpiece meets the cheek. To swivel or not to swivel, that is the next question. A swept back shank, on the other hand, allows more warning for the horse before the bit is engaged because you have to pick up more rein to contact the bit.īut knowing the length and angle of the shanks isn’t enough.
#TYPES OF GAG BITS FULL#
This, generally means that a straight shanked bit is harsher because there is little warning before the full pressure of the cue is applied. It takes less rein movement to move straight shanks. The straighter the shanks are, the less warning the horse gets before the action of the bit is engaged. Angle of Shanksīut it’s not just the length of the shank that matters. A long-shanked bit allows the smallest movement to translate clearly to the horse. These are most commonly seen in events such as reining where a rider’s cues are expected to be nearly invisible.
Long shanks are usually more severe as it takes less rein to put pressure on the mouth. Shorter shanks magnify the rein cues less than with long shanks. Generally, shorter the shanks means a milder bit. A change in the ratio of purchase to shank changes how the bit works and where it puts the most pressure. If you measure the length of the shank and get 2, then measure the purchase and get 1, that particular bit has a ratio of 1:2, meaning that for every 1 pound you exert on the reins, the horse feels 2 pounds in his mouth. The ratio of a leverage bit can be found by measuring the length of the shank and the length of the purchase. Shanks create more leverage with less pressure on the reins. This means that for each pound of pressure exerted on the reins, the horse feels one pound in his mouth. Then there is the mouthpiece which is made up of the bars and – on many leverage bits – the port.Ī snaffle bit has a 1:1 leverage ratio. There are the cheeks, which are made up of the purchase and the shank. Let’s start with some basic parts of all leverage bits.
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